From the front rows to the debuts, the invitations to the finales and everything in between, we are growing increasingly excited for the forthcoming fashion weeks.
To celebrate the global apparel market, commonly known as the fashion industry we have all selected our favourite shows of all time. Read about which shows have given the team life.
Tamsin, Dior | SS9
Kim Jones’ SS19 debut walk for Dior Homme tops all walks for me. The collection featured a surprise collaboration with artist and designer Brian Donnelly known professionally as Kaws – who was also commissioned to design the set . The walk was a beautiful balance of streetwear and luxury fashion. Jones remixed Dior’s signature silhouettes with his own style, alongside Kaws’ creative influence plus the input of ALYX’s, Matthew Williams, that added an industrial feel to the collection with his trademark buckles featured throughout.
Between them they showcased a walk which infused femininity through the use of flowers and pastel colours, nature via the reimaged bee motif and showing outside, and masculinity through the sharp cuts and Dior’s signature suits. The set also featured a giant Kaws figure made from flowers and each guest was gifted a Kaws plush toy – who doesn’t love flowers and toys!
Gareth, Alexander McQueen
I am torn between the back catalogue of genius that was the late Alexander McQueen, who reinvented the genre of the catwalk presentation.
There was always an undertone to the McQueen shows; be it the theatre of robots emerging from the stage to spray paint the finale model, Shalom Harlow, to rain pouring down as models descended along the catwalk, to a holographic Kate Moss or the visionary future world of one of his last ever shows Armadillo Crossing (S|S2010), there was always theatre.
The iconic “It’s a Jungle Out There” set the tone for what had come before and what would follow the legacy of Alexander McQueen shows. At the time I was just about to embark on a degree at Central Saint Martins, and McQueen to me was everything. Inspired by a documentary with gazelles being mauled by lions and hyenas, the show, in a then run down Borough Market, featured a set full of derelict cars punctured with holes, reminiscent of the closing scene of Bonnie and Clyde. The set designer, Simon Costin, who is a genius himself shared stories of the set with me, when on a job in Birmingham. The potentially unexpected fires on the set and cars that could go up at any minute added to the spectacle and raw excitement of the show, that proved a masterpiece.
The clothes were unflinchingly sharp, tailored suits and coats in men’s fabrics, high shine vinyl dresses, bleached denim, sculpted suede and taxidermy reptile heads, animal horns formed the 100 look show, all styled in a perfect animalistic way by the stylist Katy England.
Sophia, Gucci AW18
Alessandro Michele’s set design for the Gucci AW18 show mesmerised me. It was such a surreal setting for a catwalk show. Mixing beautiful and delicate materials such as transparent tulle and jewels cascading from balaclavas, with slightly gruesome prosthetic heads, which were the spitting image of the models carrying them, was a beautiful oxymoron to watch.
Jovana, Chanel Couture | Fall 2017
Kaiser Karl has always been for me the perfect showman and his Haute Couture collection for Chanel was breathtaking.
Featuring a giant model of the Eiffel Tower, that rose out from the runway, in the middle of the always impressive Grand Palais, the show was quintessentially Chanel and quintessentially Karl Lagerfeld.
Chanel to me is all about craftsmanship and construction. From the days when Coco Chanel rejected the confines of what was deemed suitable for how women should dress, she tore up the rules and the show had all of the brand signatures in abundance. From second skin coats, with neat waists and clean shoulders, through to the classic trims, flecked tweeds and subtle use of motifs.
As with everything Chanel the accessories are as important as the venue and the clothes. Bowler style hats were paired with heavy 80s inspired pearl earrings and patent boots with perspex heels that gave the models the appearance of floating. Always a leader in the beauty stakes, and something that I always look at, the make-up was paired back, with a nude lip complimented by a subdued Blitz multi-coloured eye shadow that undoubtedly kept the beauty concessions busy throughout the season.
A stunning example of couture and Chanel at it’s finest.
Mpona, Louis Vuitton | SS14
The swansong from the heady days of Marc Jacobs at the helm of the luxury Louis Vuitton spoke volumes to my inner showgirl. A somewhat macabre circus vibe, the show reinvestigated an often used set of an amusement park, stripped back and derelict, which may have been a nod to the designer moving onto ventures new.
The clothes had everything that you would expect from Jacobs and his time at LV, sheer dresses embellished with black jewels, luxe-denim and the Stephen Sprouse Louis Vuitton graffiti, which became synonymous with the brand daubed in body paint on an otherwise naked Edie Campbell.
Long time collaborator Stephen Jones created exaggerated feather headdresses that dominated the space and accompanied the all black and denim ensembles that were paraded on a host of supermodels and the most desirable new faces.
My kind of showgirls, my kind of show.