This season, AW20 Menswear began with Virgil Abloh proclaiming the “death of streetwear”.
We have seen more tailoring, trench coats, and a more sophisticated look compared to the usual streetwear vibe. Although, there was still a clear urban influence.
We’ve highlighted the following key trends from the AW20 collections:
Different to last year’s casual wear, Autumn Winter 2020 has seen many a suit walk down the runway. Sophistication and tailoring have made a comeback, but with an innovative twist, oversized silhouettes. Brands such as Alexander McQueen, Berluti, Valentino, Givenchy and Louis Vuitton included a highly ‘smartened’ collection. Virgil Abloh, for Louis Vuttion, turned heads when the collection opened with traditional suits, crisp shirts and polished shoes, then changed to a more disassembled montage, with deconstructed silhouettes. Is this potentially the new “Streetwear”? Although the Alexander McQueen collection was not featured on the runway, each piece still included immaculate tailoring. The suits had exquisite alignment between the trousers and blazers, creating truly flawless pieces.
Gender fluidity is someone who doesn’t have a fixed gender, and this season fashion has conformed to gender irrelevance. There has been added ‘glamour’ and embellishments to garments, that would have once been seen as “too feminine”. Tom Ford, Missoni, Dior Homme, and many others have featured a highly decorated and gender-equal collection. Loewe created a ‘fantasy wardrobe’, including curlicue coat collars, organza fringing and glamourous swinging coats, to mention a few key pieces of the collection. Jonathan Anderson’s take on couture structures and a reinterpreted woman’s block created this fantastical collection.
Over the past few years, climate change has struck the world hard, particularly with Greta Thunberg addressing the issue caused global shock waves. During fashion week, we have seen many brands design a ‘recycled’ collection, where some pieces, if not all, have been made with recyclable materials, such as Prada, Emporio Armani, Marni, E.Tautz and Bethany Williams. Prada’s collection was made from sustainable materials, including recycled fibres as well as bags made from regenerated nylon. Emporio Armani’s finale featured flashing “Say Yes to Recycling”, projected around the room and a sportswear collection was released made purely from “recycled, regenerated or organic materials”, which were branded as R-EA.
Knitwear was dominant throughout many of the collections, which is different from the usual approach of athleisure wear. Berluti, Dolce and Gabbana, Fendi, Giorgio Armani and many others, displayed knitwear elements in their designs. Berluti added a retro spin on its collection; it approached knitwear in a different way to other fashion designers, by using bold block colourings to weave into either Prince of Wales check coats or printed knitted jumpers. Dolce and Gabbana featured a lamb in their catwalk to represent the tradition of shepherding and the age-old craft of shearing. This collection saw alpaca coats woven to resemble herringbone and wool spun oversized coats, looking like fur, which gave an overall volumised silhouette.
Leather was used during Fashion Week by many designers, the leather suit was a highlight from Berluti and Louis Vuitton; a new-comer to this season. Dior Homme, Fendi, John Lawerence Sullivan, Juun.J and Vetements, were a few designers who featured multiple leather pieces. John Lawerence Sullivan created a heavily leather focused catwalk with a mixture of jackets and trousers, including a ‘leather suit’, the particularly daring look was the bright scarlet co-ord. The majority of the pieces in Juun.J’s collection were leather-based, with only one look not including the fabric. It was a powerful catwalk, with the colour palette being very dark, yet the complex and volumised silhouettes added expressivity, the face masks were the final addition to create the dramatic performance.